Morpho UV printer jigs: a free tool that draws them, no CAD needed.

Morpho's Kickstarter went live on 20 August 2026, and the thing that separates their desktop UV printer from the rest of the flatbeds isn't the head or the ink. It's the open jig system. You won't be stuck with the fixtures the manufacturer sells: you can design your own, register it in Morpho Studio, and print onto whatever you like, arranged however the job wants it.

That's the part that pays for itself if you sell anything in batches. It's also the part that quietly assumes you'll open FreeCAD, import an STP template and boolean a pocket out of it.

So we built the Morpho Jig Maker, which does the same job with sliders. Pick your platform, say what you're printing on and how many you want, and it lays the pockets out inside the printable area and builds the jig around them. Free, runs in your browser, nothing uploaded, no sign-up.

What it'll hold

There are 138 sizes in the library across eleven categories, so most jobs start with a preset rather than a tape measure.

Cards has business cards in five regional standards - UK and European at 85 by 55mm, US 89 by 51mm, Japanese 91 by 55mm, Oceania 90 by 55mm, and the 90 by 54mm used across China and much of Asia - plus square and slim cuts, trading cards from mini through bridge and tarot to jumbo, postcards, folded greeting cards in A6, A5, DL and square, and seven bookmark sizes. Paper and prints runs A4 down to A7 with DL, US Letter and two squares.

Badges covers the seven round button sizes from 25 to 75mm, four squares, and two name-badge blanks. Coasters and magnets does 90, 95 and 100mm rounds, beer mats at 93 and 107mm, square coasters, and fridge magnets from a 25mm round up to 70 by 50mm, card and photo sizes included.

Phone cases lists the current iPhone, Galaxy and Pixel bodies grouped by size, with generic small, medium and large for anything not named. Earbud charging cases come in three shapes. Dice covers d6 from 12 to 25mm plus a full polyhedral set. Keycaps run 1u to 2.75u with 6.25u and 7u spacebars. Coins go 20 to 70mm and 1.5 to 2.5 inches.

Sports is fourteen balls - golf, table tennis, squash, snooker, pool, racquetball, lacrosse, tennis, cricket, field hockey, baseball, pickleball and softball in both sizes - plus an ice hockey puck. Stationery holds ten pens and markers lying down, from a slim barrel to a whiteboard marker.

Nothing there that fits? Give it a width, a depth and a height and it builds around that instead. The library is a starting point rather than a limit, which is what you want for a tin, a lighter, a slate coaster or whatever your customers keep asking for.

Setting one up

Start with the platform. The A4 base plate gives you 330 by 220mm of printable area, the A3 printbed 330 by 420mm. The jig sizes itself to whichever you pick and runs out past the printable area, so there's a border to carry the label and an edge to lift it by.

Then the object and the count. Set rows and columns yourself, or tick Fill the jig and it works out how many fit. The readout keeps up as you go: pocket size, how many you're getting, the edge walls left over, finished thickness, and roughly what it'll weigh in filament at 20% infill.

The bits it works out for you

Pocket depth comes off the object's real height rather than a guess. A business card gets about a millimetre, enough to stop it sliding and shallow enough to lift out again. A golf ball gets a seat deliberately smaller than the ball, so it sits on the rim with its top clear to print on. A pen lies in a round-bottomed trough half its barrel deep so it can't roll.

The pockets stand on a thin plate with a collar raised round each one, so depth only exists where an object needs it. That keeps a deep pocket from dragging the whole jig up towards the printer's height limit, and it saves a fair chunk of filament: on a golf ball jig, about two thirds against a solid slab.

Clearance sits at 0.3mm by default, mid-range for the 0.2 to 0.4mm Morpho suggest for PLA. Finger notches cut into the pocket wall so you can get a printed card back out, front, back, sides or all four. Lead-in chamfers break the rim so an object drops in instead of catching on it. There's a push-out hole through the floor if you'd rather pop things up from underneath, and square pockets get a relief at each corner, because a printed inside corner is never sharp and a square object would otherwise ride up on the build-up.

Holding it on the bed

The A4 plate has eleven 10 by 3mm magnets set flush in its surface. Turn magnet pockets on and the jig gets matching pockets in its underside, directly over the plate's own, ready for magnets or steel discs glued in flush.

The A3 printbed has no magnets. It locates on 4mm holes near the corners, so the tool bores a hole straight through the jig over each one and countersinks the top. A printed pin drops in from above and finishes below the surface: nothing to glue, nothing proud for the height probe to catch, and it lifts straight out when you want the jig off. Only the top 3mm of the bed's hole actually locates, so the pins are short by design.

Both beds, in numbers

The A4 base plate is roughly 350 by 309mm with a 2.7mm chamfer off each corner, 330 by 220mm of that printable, and 168mm of headroom including the jig. The A3 printbed is about 356 by 456mm, chamfered 4.7mm, printable 330 by 420mm, with headroom down to 133mm because the bed sits higher in the machine. Design a tall jig against the A4's figure and it'll fail the moment you switch beds.

Cover most of the bed and you'll cover some of the printer's own recognition marks with it. Morpho account for that: where a jig hides them you position with Custom Jig mode or Snapshot mode instead. Register the jig in Studio under Library, then Jig, then Add Jig, and draw the printable region so it's there next time. The A3 printbed doesn't support Smart Alignment at all, so Snapshot is the method there.

Bigger than your printer? Split it

A full A3 jig is wider than most desktop 3D printers will take in one go, so it splits into a grid of blocks that each fit yours. The seams snap to the gaps between pockets so a cut never crosses one, and the joins carry interlocking teeth that pull the blocks into line when you glue them.

Tooth depth is capped by the real distance from the seam to the nearest pocket wall rather than by whatever you asked for, so ask for 5mm in a jig with 12mm between pockets and you'll get less. The collar round each pocket is what a tooth meets first. You can preview any block on its own before committing to the set.

Labels, marks and what comes out

Every jig carries a label engraved into the border, filled in for you as something like Business card - UK / Europe 85 x 55mm x 6, and editable if you'd rather write your own. Print it in a second colour and it comes out as its own body in the 3MF so the slicer swaps filament for it. There's a thin line marking where the printable area stops, in its own colour as well, so that boundary lives on the jig instead of only on screen.

Downloads are STL for printing, 3MF when you want the label in colour, STEP if you'd rather carry on in CAD, and SVG or DXF top views for cutting a flat positioning frame on a laser. Share a design and the link reopens it exactly, custom sizes and all, with nothing stored at our end.

What it means for you

Nobody has a Morpho on the bench yet, ours included, so the tool is built from the dimensions Morpho publish and the base plate STP they distribute. That's why it carries an In Test badge, and why the sensible move is a paper test on your first jig: lay white paper where the object sits, print a crosshair, check it lands square.

If you've put a deposit down and you're planning to sell anything in batches, the jigs are the part worth having sorted before the machine turns up. Pick the object, pick how many, print it.