Question 1

What does the Lamp Maker make?

Accepted Answer

Flat-pack wooden lamps and pendant shades for a laser cutter. It builds the design from vertical slats (ribs) crossed with horizontal rings that interlock with cross-lap notches — many slats with few rings give a slatted or teardrop shade, a few spines with many rings give a stacked-contour shade. You get every part nested on a sheet as a cut-ready SVG, plus a live 3D preview of the assembled lamp you can spin with the mouse.

Question 2

Do I need CAD or laser experience?

Accepted Answer

No CAD. Pick a belly preset and drag the sliders — height, diameters, number of slats and rings, material thickness and slot fit — and the 3D preview updates live. Parts export as a vector SVG in real millimetres with 0.1 mm hairline cut lines, ready for LightBurn, xTool, Glowforge or any laser. Cut lines are black and engraved assembly numbers are blue on a separate layer, so you assign them to cut vs score in your laser software.

Question 3

How does it fit a bulb — and is it safe?

Accepted Answer

Add one or more bulb mounts sized for standard holders — E27/E14 shade rings, B22, GU10 or an M10 nipple — and the tool swaps the ring at that height for a mount disc with a spoked, light-bleed centre. It only generates the shade frame: pair it with a proper lamp holder and cable, use a cool-running LED bulb kept clear of the wood, and have any mains wiring done or checked by a qualified electrician. It's a beta tool, so always check the parts before you cut.

Question 4

What about twist, end caps and materials?

Accepted Answer

You can twist the whole shade — the slats stay straight and span between rotated rings (a twisted prism) — and add solid top and bottom end caps that the slats tenon into. Every part is engraved with an assembly number so each slat goes into the same slot on every ring. It's drawn for thin plywood or MDF; choose your sheet size and it nests everything across multiple sheets with a cut-length and material-cost estimate. Thin material and slimmer struts work best for a strong twist.

Question 5

What does the Clock Designer make?

Accepted Answer

Layered wooden wall clocks for a laser cutter. Each design is a stack of flat layers whose cut-outs nest deeper layer by layer to create terraced, three-dimensional depth — choose organic Voronoi cells, topographic contour rings or flowing waves, in a round, triangle, squircle or oval shape. You get every layer nested on a sheet as a cut-ready SVG, plus a live 3D preview of the assembled clock you can spin with the mouse.

Question 6

Do I need CAD or laser experience?

Accepted Answer

No CAD. Pick a style and shape and drag the sliders — number of layers, step depth, cell count and coverage, markers and hands — tweak the colour of each layer, and the 3D preview updates live. Parts export as a vector SVG in real millimetres with 0.1 mm hairline cut lines (black) and scored markers or numerals (blue) on a separate layer, ready for LightBurn, xTool, Glowforge or any laser.

Question 7

How does it become a working clock?

Accepted Answer

It's built around a standard battery quartz movement: the centre hole takes the movement's shaft, and you can add a recessed pocket through the back layers so the movement box sits flush. Hands are optional in the export — most movements come with their own — so tick the box only if you want to laser-cut a matching set. Cut each layer, stack and glue them, then fit the movement and hands.

Question 8

What materials does it use, and how do the layers work?

Accepted Answer

It's drawn for thin plywood, MDF or acrylic. Each “layer” is a separate sheet you cut and stack front-to-back; the nested windows create the stepped terraces, and you can stain or paint individual layers (or use the on-screen colour preview as a guide) for a two-tone or graded look. Choose your sheet size and it nests every layer with a cut-length estimate. It's a beta tool, so always check the parts before you cut.

Laser Cutting & Engraving.

Lamp Maker

Clock Designer