Question 1

What does the Lattice & Vase Generator make?

Accepted Answer

3D-printable cylinders and boxes with either an open lattice (organic Voronoi windows, an architectural diagrid, or flowing gyroid bands) or a solid textured wall (fluted, ribbed or knurled). Turn on vase mode to taper the top and base and slide a belly point up or down, and it becomes a simple, modern vase, planter, lampshade, pen pot or sleeve — exported as a print-ready STL.

Question 2

Do I need to know CAD to use it?

Accepted Answer

No. It's all sliders and a live 3D preview you can spin with the mouse — pick a shape and pattern, drag the size, wall thickness, twist, density and depth, and watch it update instantly. When it looks right, click Download STL. Nothing to install and no sign-up.

Question 3

Can I make a vase that prints without supports?

Accepted Answer

Yes — the solid wall patterns (fluted, ribbed and knurled) are continuous skins with no holes, so they print support-free and suit vase mode / spiralize beautifully. They build a watertight base in automatically. The open lattices (Voronoi, diagrid, gyroid) print best upright and may want light supports depending on the pattern.

Question 4

What file format does it export, and is it free?

Accepted Answer

A watertight binary STL in millimetre units, Z-up, ready for any slicer — Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura or OrcaSlicer — with a live mass and filament-cost estimate. It's free and runs entirely in your browser; nothing is uploaded. If you'd rather we print it for you, send the STL through our quote form.

Question 5

What does the Printed Lamp Maker make?

Accepted Answer

A complete accent or table lamp in two parts: a 3D-printed shade that glows warmly, and a laser-cut wooden stand that cradles it. You design the shade's shape and surface, choose a wooden stand that fits around it, and download a watertight STL for the shade plus a laser-ready SVG for the wooden parts.

Question 6

How do the shade and stand fit together?

Accepted Answer

The stand is generated to fit the shade you've designed — choose a round stacked base, a tripod cradle whose rails hug the shade and hook over the rim, splayed rocket legs, or a lantern post-frame, and it sizes itself to your shade's diameter and height automatically. Six popular-style presets (Spiral Glow, Ribbed Capsule, Wave Flame, Tripod Teardrop, Rocket Egg, Akari Lantern) set the shade and stand together as a starting point.

Question 7

Do I need CAD, a 3D printer and a laser cutter?

Accepted Answer

No CAD — it's sliders and a live 3D preview. To build it yourself you'd 3D-print the shade (any FDM printer; warm-white PLA in vase / spiralize mode looks great) and laser-cut the wooden parts from thin plywood or MDF. No machines? Send us the files through the quote form and we'll make it. It's a beta tool, so always check the parts before you print or cut.

Question 8

What do I download, and is it safe to wire up?

Accepted Answer

Two files: a watertight binary STL of the shade (millimetre units, slicer-ready) and an SVG of the wooden stand parts with 0.1 mm hairline cut lines nested on a sheet. It only makes the shade and stand — pair them with a proper lamp holder, cable and a cool-running LED bulb kept clear of the parts, and have any mains wiring done or checked by a qualified electrician.

Question 9

What does the Lamp Maker make?

Accepted Answer

Flat-pack wooden lamps and pendant shades for a laser cutter. It builds the design from vertical slats (ribs) crossed with horizontal rings that interlock with cross-lap notches — many slats with few rings give a slatted or teardrop shade, a few spines with many rings give a stacked-contour shade. You get every part nested on a sheet as a cut-ready SVG, plus a live 3D preview of the assembled lamp you can spin with the mouse.

Question 10

Do I need CAD or laser experience?

Accepted Answer

No CAD. Pick a belly preset and drag the sliders — height, diameters, number of slats and rings, material thickness and slot fit — and the 3D preview updates live. Parts export as a vector SVG in real millimetres with 0.1 mm hairline cut lines, ready for LightBurn, xTool, Glowforge or any laser. Cut lines are black and engraved assembly numbers are blue on a separate layer, so you assign them to cut vs score in your laser software.

Question 11

How does it fit a bulb — and is it safe?

Accepted Answer

Add one or more bulb mounts sized for standard holders — E27/E14 shade rings, B22, GU10 or an M10 nipple — and the tool swaps the ring at that height for a mount disc with a spoked, light-bleed centre. It only generates the shade frame: pair it with a proper lamp holder and cable, use a cool-running LED bulb kept clear of the wood, and have any mains wiring done or checked by a qualified electrician. It's a beta tool, so always check the parts before you cut.

Question 12

What about twist, end caps and materials?

Accepted Answer

You can twist the whole shade — the slats stay straight and span between rotated rings (a twisted prism) — and add solid top and bottom end caps that the slats tenon into. Every part is engraved with an assembly number so each slat goes into the same slot on every ring. It's drawn for thin plywood or MDF; choose your sheet size and it nests everything across multiple sheets with a cut-length and material-cost estimate. Thin material and slimmer struts work best for a strong twist.

Question 13

What does the Clock Designer make?

Accepted Answer

Layered wooden wall clocks for a laser cutter. Each design is a stack of flat layers whose cut-outs nest deeper layer by layer to create terraced, three-dimensional depth — choose organic Voronoi cells, topographic contour rings or flowing waves, in a round, triangle, squircle or oval shape. You get every layer nested on a sheet as a cut-ready SVG, plus a live 3D preview of the assembled clock you can spin with the mouse.

Question 14

Do I need CAD or laser experience?

Accepted Answer

No CAD. Pick a style and shape and drag the sliders — number of layers, step depth, cell count and coverage, markers and hands — tweak the colour of each layer, and the 3D preview updates live. Parts export as a vector SVG in real millimetres with 0.1 mm hairline cut lines (black) and scored markers or numerals (blue) on a separate layer, ready for LightBurn, xTool, Glowforge or any laser.

Question 15

How does it become a working clock?

Accepted Answer

It's built around a standard battery quartz movement: the centre hole takes the movement's shaft, and you can add a recessed pocket through the back layers so the movement box sits flush. Hands are optional in the export — most movements come with their own — so tick the box only if you want to laser-cut a matching set. Cut each layer, stack and glue them, then fit the movement and hands.

Question 16

What materials does it use, and how do the layers work?

Accepted Answer

It's drawn for thin plywood, MDF or acrylic. Each “layer” is a separate sheet you cut and stack front-to-back; the nested windows create the stepped terraces, and you can stain or paint individual layers (or use the on-screen colour preview as a guide) for a two-tone or graded look. Choose your sheet size and it nests every layer with a cut-length estimate. It's a beta tool, so always check the parts before you cut.

Question 17

What is a UV-printed lenticular print?

Accepted Answer

A print that flips between images, animates or shows 3D depth as you tilt it. The artwork is interlaced into fine strips, and a matching array of tiny cylindrical lenses is printed on top in clear UV ink. The tool generates both layers — the colour artwork and the greyscale lens heightmap — sized and registered for each other.

Question 18

Do I need lenticular lens sheets?

Accepted Answer

No — that's the point. The lens array itself is printed in clear gloss ink from the heightmap the tool generates, so there's no plastic lens sheet to buy, laminate or align. Built-in calibration swatches (pitch, focus and curvature sweeps) dial the printed lens in to your exact printer and ink.

Question 19

How many images can a lenticular print hold?

Accepted Answer

Up to 8 source frames, and the tool can synthesize more views by morphing between them — load 2 frames and print 8 views for a smoother flip. For 3D, supply one colour image plus a depth map and it synthesizes the parallax views automatically.

Question 20

Which printers does it work with?

Accepted Answer

It's tuned for the eufyMake UV printer at 720 or 1440 DPI, but LPI, DPI and the clear-ink refractive index are all adjustable, so it suits any UV printer that accepts a greyscale texture or varnish heightmap layer. We also offer lenticular UV printing as a service if you'd rather send us the artwork.

Question 21

What is a depth map in UV printing?

Accepted Answer

A greyscale image where white areas print raised and black areas stay flat. UV printers build the relief in thin cured-ink passes (around 20 microns each), so a depth map drives embossed, textured 2.5D effects — even 1–1.5 mm of physical relief looks dramatic on a finished piece.

Question 22

Can it create a depth map from an ordinary photo?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Use luminance mode for logos and line art, or AI Depth mode — Depth Anything V2 running locally in your browser — which understands what's foreground and background in a photo regardless of its colours. The model downloads once (about 50 MB) and your images never leave your device.

Question 23

Can I control which parts are raised?

Accepted Answer

Beyond the tone and detail sliders (levels, gamma, contrast, sharpen, smooth and quantised depth steps), there's a depth brush: paint directly on the depth map to raise, lower or erase areas by hand, with adjustable size and strength.

Question 24

What does it output?

Accepted Answer

A greyscale depth map PNG at up to 2048 px, pixel-aligned with your colour artwork for registration in the printer software, plus a watertight STL of the relief in real millimetres with an interactive full-colour 3D preview before you download.

Question 25

What does the Planter Mould Maker make?

Accepted Answer

Modern plant pots and the tooling to reproduce them. Start from a smooth cylinder or cube and emboss or carve the surface with geometric displacement patterns — dots, hex, pyramids, weave, honeycomb, chevrons and more — or upload your own logo as a relief. Then download a watertight STL to 3D-print the planter directly, or a casting-mould set to reproduce it in concrete, plaster or resincrete.

Question 26

Do I need CAD to use it?

Accepted Answer

No. It's all sliders and a live 3D preview you can spin with the mouse — choose a shape, pick a displacement pattern, and drag the depth, scale, position and rotation until it looks right. You can keep the inside smooth while patterning only the outside, hold a clean rim at the top, and add a drainage hole. Nothing to install and no sign-up.

Question 27

How does the casting mould work?

Accepted Answer

It uses a silicone-mould workflow: you 3D-print the patterned planter as the master, sit it inside the tool's smooth 2-part container and pour silicone into the gap to capture every detail, then cast concrete or resincrete in the flexible silicone — using the supplied core to form the soil cavity. The mould downloads as separate STL parts (two outer halves, base and core) with tongue-and-groove registration.

Question 28

What does it output, and is it free?

Accepted Answer

A watertight binary STL of the planter in millimetre units, ready for any slicer — Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura or OrcaSlicer — plus the optional mould STL set and a laser-ready SVG lid. It's free and runs entirely in your browser; nothing is uploaded. Prefer we make it for you? Send the file through our quote form. It's a beta tool, so always check the parts before you print or cast.

Free maker
tools.

Lattice & Vase Generator

Printed Lamp Maker

Lamp Maker

Clock Designer

Lenticular Maker

Depth Map Maker

Planter Mould Maker

Free makertools.